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Chinese traditional operas are known for their colorful and intricate costumes, which play an essential role in conveying the characters’ personalities and emotions. These costumes are called “戏装” (xì zhuāng) in Chinese, which literally means “drama clothing”. In this article, we will explore the history and significance of 戏装 in Chinese opera.

History of 戏装

The origin of 戏装 can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907), when the Chinese opera was first developed. At that time, the actors wore simple costumes made of silk or cotton, which were decorated with embroidery or painted patterns. However, as the opera became more popular, the costumes became more elaborate and sophisticated.

In the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the 戏装 reached its peak in terms of artistry and craftsmanship. The costumes were made of luxurious materials such as brocade, silk, and velvet, and were adorned with intricate embroidery, gold thread, and precious stones. Each costume was tailored to fit the actor’s body and reflect the character’s social status, age, and personality.

During the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), the 戏装 continued to evolve, incorporating elements from the Manchu culture, such as the long robe with wide sleeves and the fur-lined coat. At the same time, Western fashion also influenced the design of the costumes, resulting in a fusion of Chinese and Western styles.

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Types of 戏装

There are many types of 戏装 in Chinese opera, each with its unique style and symbolism. Here are some of the most common ones:

Sheng

Sheng is the male role in Chinese opera, usually played by a middle-aged or elderly actor. The Sheng costume is characterized by a long robe with wide sleeves, a round collar, and a square panel on the front. The colors of the Sheng costume vary depending on the character’s personality and social status. For example, a high-ranking official would wear a bright red or purple robe, while a scholar would wear a blue or green one.

Dan

Dan is the female role in Chinese opera, usually played by a young male actor. The Dan costume is more elaborate than the Sheng costume, with a fitted jacket, a long skirt, and a headdress. The colors of the Dan costume also reflect the character’s personality and mood. For example, a virtuous and gentle woman would wear a white or light-colored costume, while a fierce and rebellious woman would wear a dark-colored one.

Jing

Jing is the painted-face role in Chinese opera, usually played by a male actor with a painted face. The Jing costume is the most colorful and flamboyant of all, with a lot of embroidery, sequins, and metallic decorations. The colors of the Jing costume are also symbolic, with red representing loyalty and courage, black representing fierceness and determination, and white representing treachery and deceit.

Chou

Chou is the clown role in Chinese opera, usually played by a male actor with a funny face and a witty personality. The Chou costume is designed to be comical and exaggerated, with oversized sleeves, pants, and shoes. The colors of the Chou costume are also bright and bold, such as orange, yellow, and green.

Significance of 戏装

The 戏装 plays a crucial role in Chinese opera, not only as a visual spectacle but also as a means of communication between the actors and the audience. The costumes convey the characters’ emotions, intentions, and social status, allowing the audience to understand the story and the message of the opera.

Moreover, the 戏装 is also a reflection of the Chinese culture and aesthetics. The intricate embroidery, the rich colors, and the elaborate designs are a testament to the Chinese craftsmanship and creativity. The 戏装 has inspired many fashion designers and artists around the world, who have incorporated its elements into their own works.

Conclusion

The 戏装 is an integral part of Chinese opera, representing the essence of the art form and the cultural heritage of China. Its history, persity, and symbolism make it a fascinating subject of study and admiration. Whether you are a fan of Chinese opera or simply appreciate the beauty of traditional costumes, the 戏装 is a treasure worth exploring.